Bitterroot - Highest 25 peaks

Late in the summer, I made an informal goal of climbing the last of the remaining high points in the Bitterroot before ski season. Armed with insufficient research which indicated I was only four peaks shy, I put in took two link up days to get 'em all.

Since spending and evening or two combing through maps (one of my all time favorite pastimes), I now have a preliminary list.  And a handful of unnamed remote peaks that I didn't previously know about for future adventures. The list is fairly arbitrary since I grouped several peak groups (Como peaks, Shard peaks, Heavenly Twin groups, etc), and left others split (Trapper group, Lonesome Bachelor/Como group).  I also did not include several minor high points along canyon ridge tops with less than 500 feet of prominence.

I also included some off the cuff route information.  Hope folks find it useful, and I would be excited if anyone has knowledge and feedback to sharpen it up.  Most notably, is there a common name for South Chaffin peak/The Tusk? 


Note:  For those seeking summer time Bitterroot route information, Michael Hoyt's Bitterroot guidebook is the best resource out there.  I recommend going local and picking up a copy at the Trailhead in Missoula.  Most of the information is also posted at summitpost.

Peak Name	Elevation	Summer Routes	Ski Routes
Trapper Peak	10157	Most rewarding non technical route is from Baker lake. Cowboy traverse from Trapper.	Easy access in spring. North couloirs.
El Capitan	9983	South couloir on East face to upper South face. Combine with Lonesome Bachelor and Como peaks.	Southeast couloirs would be standard. East face is perhaps the best steep skiing objective in the range.
The Shard	9883	South face. Northeast ridge from Little Tin Cup.	Southeast face is skiiable but over cliffs. Doable but not recommended.
Boulder Peaks	9804	East ridge from Boulder point (or Nelson lake). Or do loop traverse from Bare.	East Boulder peak has many great ski lines. Northeast face from summit is a good steep skiing objective. Only the last 400 feet are challenging.
North Trapper Peak	9801	Southeast face (4th). Or Cowboy traverse to Trapper (Easy 5th. recommended). Or North ridge (5.7 recommended).	Southeast face and couloir are skiable from near the summit
West Trapper Peak	9772	South face from Trapper approach.	Northwest couloir (not from summit) looks good.
Como Peaks	9624	From Little or Tin Cup are both rugged.	South faces. North ramp of Middle Como is OK. Northeast faces of the other peaks look challenging but doable.
Little Tin Cup Peak	9617	East face from Chaffin Creek.	East face from Little Chaffin. South face into Chaffin has a few continuous avalanche paths. Possible to combine with Tin Cup chutes?
Saint Joseph Peak	9587	From Little St. Joe. Or continue out to Stormy Joe and loop back down Bass creek.	Skiable on all aspects. Standard approach is up Southeast face.
Sugarloaf Peak	9586	North couloir. Moderate technical ridges on North face could have potential.	North couloir is a Bitterroot classic.
South Chaffin Peak/The Tusk	9485	West ridge from Chaffin Creek (Easy 5th). South face should have some good harder routes (5.10 and up?)	Not skiable from summit
Bare Peak	9459	East ridge from Nelson Lake	Northeast face. Many north couloirs which look good.
Mink Peak	9363	South face or Southwest ridge from extension of Trapper approach looks most logical	South face?
Mount Jerusalem	9355	South face.	South face looks just OK.
Saint Mary Peak	9351	Trail up East ridge. Extend to Heavenly Twins	Easy access in spring. Many east facing options. Southwest face with potential to go farther west toward Hevenly Twins.
South Heavenly Twin	9282	Southwest face. Northwest ridge is dirty easy 5th. East face is 4th. Traverse between summits is not technical. Can traverse in from St. Mary's (recommended).	Southwest face. East face is challenging but good. South face from Big creek (not from summit).
Trapper Lake peak	9260	Southeast face from Chaffin creek?	Southeast face from Chaffin creek? This one is a long way back.
Lonesome Bachelor	9185	Southwest ridge (4th) from upper Little Rock creek lakes is easiest, but it is best to combine this with El Capitan.	Not skiable. Except the Northeast face might be skiable but would be very challenging.
Whites Mountain	9162	From Bear Pass in Lost Horse creek.	Probably north side from the South Fork of Lost Horse creek.
Sweeney Peak	9161	East ridge. Or traverse from Lolo or loop from Pyramid Buttes.	Northeast face. There is some skiing farther east of the main summit.
Canyon Peak	9154	Southeast face is standard. North ridge (5.2) is recommended.	South face to within a few hundred feet of the summit. East face from summit ridge is a good steep skiing objective.
Lolo Peak	9139	Northeast face from Carlton lake. Or loop from Mill Creek and Lantern ridge (recommended).	Good skiing on all aspects
Ward Mountain	9119	Summer trail. Can traverse from Twin lakes in upper Lost Horse creek.	Summer trail. Southeast face into Camas creek is OK.
East Whites	9095	Probably from Como lake approach to Koch.	Probably from South Fork Lost Horse creek.
Koch Mountain	9072	From Como lake road.	North couloirs are highly recommended on years when the South Fork of Lost Horse creek has snow.
Little Saint Joe	9033	Summer trail. Continue to St. Joseph.	East face from Bass creek. Many options to continue further West, including Pinball Wizzard.
Stormy Joe	9003	West ridge from trail above Bass lake.	South couloirs. Many options, although not all go from exact summit.