Sunday, July 8, 2018

Northern Swans, Union to Cooney traverse

It is time to get back to summer mountain scrambling.  I got the short summer season rolling by checking off the last portion of the high Swan crest that I had not yet seen.  It was a great day, and it was good to finally summit the beautiful Union peak, which is the last of the major peaks on the Swan crest that I had not previously climbed.  

I started the day by biking the easy 6-mile shuttle and following the good climber's trail to Pony lake.  I jumped up onto the ridge at the lake, although in retrospect it might have been quicker to bushwack a little farther up the drainage.  The climb of Union peak was straightforward and fun.  There were a lot of slow sections between Union and the crest, and it took about an hour more than expected to reach the Swan crest.  In retrospect, I should have hopped down on snow and passed the slow sections on the North.  
Nearing the final ridge to Union peak.  Pony lake in the background.
Union peak on the right, and the traverse to the crest off the looker's left ridgeline.
The first few peaks of the crest were fast, clean, and fun.  The South ridge of the highest peak is steep and cliffy, and it took quite a bit of route sleuthing, some very solid 4th class downclimbing, and lots of scree and choss management to make it down.  To my surprise, the next section of ridge was steep and scary, so I bypassed it on the East.  In retrospect, I think it might be better to take the easiest Southeast gully off the high peak, bypass the technical ridge section, then climb back to the crest for the last two peaks.  
Looking out along the best part of the ridge from the crest.
Looking back at the first half of the ridge.
Downclimbing crux.
Steep snow, with the tricky Southwest face of the high peak behind.
The remaining traverse to Smith creek pass was fast and enjoyable.  I had an extra few minutes, and used all of them summiting Cooney peak, which adds about half an hour over just heading down the trail from the pass.  The 5 mile trail run out was downfall free and a blast.  I did take one tumble, shattering the screen on my cheap camera.  This is why I have always just used cheap digital cameras.  
Fun, fast travel near the pass. 
On Cooney, ready to head home.
Rolling home.
The drive back was quick, even with the shuttle, and I was back in town just 3.5 hours after leaving the summit of Cooney.  I have been re-doubling my efforts at spending more time at a true nose-breathing easy aerobic pace, and spent the day not too much above that effort level.  I was pleasantly tired by the time the truck came into view at 8 hours, 50 minutes bike to car, not including the 30-minute bike shuttle.  Just under 8,000 vertical feet.

Thursday, July 5, 2018

Crescent to Pyramid tour in the Swans

This post is a few months late, but I already miss ski season.  With generous help from a close friend, we were able to get out of the house super early on a beautiful, hot May day, intent on getting the tour done in time for day care pick up.
Leah skiing off the summit of Pyramid peak.
We left the car at the Morrell creek bridge around 5:15 am, and made an efficient push up Crescent.  We walked to about 6,500 feet, and from there the snow was firm enough that we were able to walk most of the remaining climb in ski boots. We had packed all manner of tasty treats, and ate like royalty on each summit, which was a nice diversion from an entrenched pattern of endless bars and sesame sticks.  From the summit of Crescent, we skied good corn on the Southwest face to the bottom of the main avalanche path.
Keeping an eye out for Morrells during the approach through the Rice Ridge fire.
Leah topping out on Crescent.
Near the bottom of the Crescent run.
The climb up West Marshall was quick and still relatively cool.  We skied the skier's left of the two main avalanche paths, which was excellent and conveniently deposited us high enough to simplify the next climb.  By this higher route, the push up Pyramid was blissfully easy.  I pushed the last climb a bit and took a cat nap on the summit before rejoining Leah.  We traversed down the west ridge of Pyramid before dropping into the longest, cleanest of the avalanche paths, which had good corn top to bottom.  We ran out of snow shortly after hitting the trail, which made for a relatively long walk out, but it was enjoyable.  We easily made it back in time for day care pick up.
... and back up to West Marshall.
Leah eating tasty snacks on West Marshall.
Good turns heading toward Pyramid.
Good turns heading home.
Such a good day.  It would be nice to add runs in along the way, but I think we pretty much nailed the most logical link up.  I think it is one of the very best outings around Missoula, even with the challenging road access.  7,000 vertical feet, done in about ten hours car to car.