Bass to Sweeney (x3)

Three different ways to traverse from Bass creek to the Sweeney trailhead.  Although I content Bass to Lolo is more definitive ski tour, Bass to Sweeney is a great outing with many variations, and much easier to shuttle.

Ben making good time near Duffy Lake

3/2:  It felt a bit spicy to cast off just a few days out from the largest avalanche cycle of the year, but both Ben and I surmised avalanche danger would work out, and it did.  We had a couple of morning hiccups, and weren't walking out of the trailhead until after 7 am.  Not surprisingly, by employing my route knowledge and Ben's fitness, we made up a good bit of time and summited Big Saint Joe in good spirits.  And after skiing an icy North face, Ben's assessment was that falling posed a significantly higher risk than avalanche.  A few hours of enlightening conversation got us to the Pyramid Butte col for the most avalanche exposed run of the day, which went smoothly.  We rolled down to Duffy Lake and made a high flat traverse before climbing to the West ridge of Sweeney.  Not caring to engage the craggy West ridge, we instead opted for a corn run in the safest corner of the bowl South of the peak (most of the bowl had avalanched, D3 a few days prior), then climbed to the East / skier's summit.  We did not go the the true Sweeney Summit.  The exit was quick and we returned to the car at dusk.  It was a treat to share this day with Ben.  And the tour was most excellent.  Recommended.

Climbing out of Sweeney Creek with our Big Joe run in the background.

Ben on our final high point.

Buddies.

3/22:  I returned a few weeks later with Leah to repeat the tour, but with lower avalanche danger, we intended to summit East Pyramid Butte and ski the complex Northeast face.  Our first hiccup of the day came when the creek crossing was too icy to cross safely, and we made the dumb decision to take the summer trail.  An hour and a half and hundreds of down trees later, we were back on track on the normal climb up Big Saint Joe.  The North face was icy and tested our edges and exposure tolerance.  It was nice to get to the bottom of the run, eat lunch, and cast up Pyramid Butte in the pleasant sun.  

Pyramid Butte Northeast was fun - not great snow, but safe.  The back end of the day was long.  Leah's high gravity day caught up with her, and getting back to the Sweeney ridge was a slow Snickers-fueled grind.  Responding, we cut off the climb to the summit of Sweeney and climbed just high enough to eke 10k out of the day before cruising out.

Leah starting down Pyramid Buttes.

7/19:  I used the day as a recon trip for a planned Lolo to Sky Pilot traverse.  I decided to minimize car driving, and bike shuttled from the Bass creek trailhead to a safe distance above houses on the Sweeney road before stashing the bike and cutting switchbacks on the road on foot.  It worked quite well, and coupled with a downfall free trail (thanks Selway-Bitterroot Foundation and Forest Service trail crews), I made excellent time to Holloway lake and the summit of West Pyramid Butte.  My primary goal was to dial the ridge to Stormy Joe in, so I took my time and was elated to find a very smooth line all the way.  The egress from Stormy Joe was enjoyable, with a quick stop at Bass lake and romp out out on the Bass creek trail.  This is a good enough summer outing that I'll probably do it again.  

Stormy Joe to West Pyramid Butte route tidbits:  With care, the ridge can be navigated at 3rd class.  It is easiest to go North to South and climb the most difficult terrain.  The South ridge of Pyramid Butte can be negotiated with detours just off the crest on both sides.  There is an intermediate peak where a bypass on the West through a bolder field is much easier than staying on the crest.  The North Ridge of Stormy Joe is craggy, but can be bypassed by detouring off the ridge around 8,700 feet where it gets steep on the West side to a small col on the West face.  From the col, a ledge can be traversed into the primary gully system, and it's easy scrambling to the summit.  Maybe a bit scrappy in spots, but all very safe and technically easy.  

Stormy Joe North ridge bypass.