Friday, June 12, 2026

Warren Peak, Southeast Face

The Southeast gully is the central gully that leaves the looker's left skyline
about 300 vertical feet below the summit.

5/20/2025 After years of Warren Wallowing in the same manner, I've taken to trying a few new things.  For the 18th annual Warren Wallow, conditions lined up for a good mid-week excursion, so I rallied early with the intent of skiing the Southeast face down to the West Fork of Fishtrap Creek.  It is hard to get eyes on this face from anywhere, so I just rolled the dice and hoped it would be in condition.  The approach to Edith lake and ascent of the Southwest face all went smoothly.  I was grateful to have reasonable visibility to snag a good view of the line from the South ridge, which allowed me to confirm there was snow and scout an entrance around the cornice.  From the summit, I navigated a sharky line down the wind swept upper Southwest face, then traversed hard skier's left to the upper Southeast face.  The rest of the run transitioned from ice to something resembling softening corn. Great run and mostly good old fashioned fun skiing. 

Looking down the Warren Southeast face run.

I noted that Southwest face of peak 10,259 (the beautiful craggy one above Warren lake) was also well filled in, and had enough time to go have a look.  The climb was easy, and I ended up skiing the face from the summit, which was also most excellent.  From the bottom, I climbed back to the obvious broad saddle north of McGlaughlin Peak and exited by Edith lake.  A clean transition to running shoes below the lake made for a reasonably quick exit.  It was really fun to do something new on Warren, and I spotted yet another new line that piqued my interest.  Fodder to keep using the Warren Wallow as a way to further explore this mountain.   

10,259. I skied the obvious central gully.

Minor note: I exited along the South shore of Edith lake.  Getting around lakeside cliffs was just tricky enough that I think the summer trail on the North side of the lake is preferable, even with annoying intermittent snow.  

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