Sunday, December 27, 2020

Flathead range traverse

After a successful partial Flathead traverse, I couldn't help but dream of traversing the crest of the entire range.  Fortunately everything lined up for an August 28 - 29 attempt.  The 40+ mile bike shuttle was a little bit of a grind, but I got it done without accruing much fatigue, and slept well at the  trailhead.

Day 1: I rolled out at 4 am, and made it to Triangle peak in time for sunrise.  The rest of the morning went OK.  It was nice to top out on new summits and gander at some of the most popular winter ski terrain, but the going was scrappier and slower than I had hoped for.  Also, there was no water.  I summited East Nyack very thirsty and about two hours behind where I wanted to be. The balls of my feet were also raw, which had me worried. A few hours later, I dragged myself over the top of Great Northern feeling pretty beat.  I chatted with a party on top for a minute, then beelined it down to a water stop at the top of the glacier.  The water stop allowed me to catch up on fluids and calories, and get a much needed mental re-set.  

Shortly after sunrise, looking out to Great Bear peak, with Great Northern in the distance.
Looking back at Penrose on the way to Nyack.
Onward to Nyack and eventually Great Northern.

The day really started clicking at that point.  It was a treat to traverse the elegant section between Great Northern and Liebig in the warm afternoon light, feeling good.  I kept pushing through the evening and made it over Elk, Adams, and Camaehwait before it finally got dark.  Each peak was fun and the going was generally non technical and fast.  One unresolved question was finding water for the night, but a lucky flicker of my headlamp reveled a big snow chunk tucked deep into a chimney on the last descent, which provided ample water for the night.  I called it a very long day around 11 pm at the saddle just short of Felix.  Dinner was pretty quick - water, peanut butter jelly sandwich and smoked salmon.  I was content with my progress and grateful to be physically intact.  I slept well, having brought enough provisions to stay comfortablish and warm. 

Looking back at Great Northern on the way to Grant.
Grant Glacier on the afternoon jaunt to the summit.
Nearing Liebig.

Looking back at Elk mountain at sunset.
Looking to Camehwait at sunset.  I climbed it in the dark and slept on the far side.
Day 2:  I awoke refreshed, started walking before first light, and summited Felix at sunrise.  After summiting Unawah, I got fairly worked by alder and all manner of bushwack drudgery crossing Logan creek.  I don't think there is really any good way to get through this section, and in the end, I only thrashed and cursed for about 30 minutes. A big climb put me on top of  peak 8,001 (I bypassed Red Sky Mountain for time).  

The next section of the traverse was long, but I was in the groove, cruising along on goat trails and enjoying the day.  Baptiste, Prospector, Circus, and Dry Park mountain each had their own character, and took 60 - 90 minutes each.  I knew that the end of the traverse would feel long, and it certainly did.  In particular, the push from Dry Park Mountain to Crossover was not as fun as the rest of the traverse, and the trail on the map down from Crossover doesn't really exist, so I spent quite a bit of extra time bushwacking down to the main trail.  My body held up just fine though, so it was just a matter of time until I was done.  I emerged at the car beat and a few hours behind schedule, but about as grateful as one can be for the experience.

Felix sunrise.
Looking out to Prospector from Baptiste.  More cruising...
Over the top of Circus peak and on the long home stretch. 
On Crossover, looking back at the last portion of the route.
Happy to be back at the car.
I had hopes of making the return drive to Missoula that night, but I pulled over to sleep for the night about half way home when sleepies attacked. 

Thoughts:  This was my defining outing of the summer, and one I am proud to have completed. I didn't track my route digitally, so don't have stats, but roughly 45 miles and 20,000 vertical feet, most of it off trail.  39 hour, 57 minutes trailhead to trailhead.  I am proud of the route, and the self contained style that I used.  I think that with proper recon of the route, a strong mountain runner could do it in a push in under 24 hours.  One could debate the aesthetic choice of starting Triangle peak, rather than at Ousel, but the slightly truncated route was worth it to me to drastically simplify the bike shuttle. 

I really enjoyed the traverse.  It provided a good hard mental challenge.  I got behind on water and food and struggled physically more than I thought I would on the first day.  I am still satisfied with my execution.  The route itself was great.  It isn't the most alpine of adventures, but I found it compelling because it is so wild. I also found the terrain clean enough to get in a really nice state of flow, following goat trails and checking off peak after peak.  In terms of recommending the route, it is a Montana gem, but it is just plain long enough to be a pretty substantial commitment.  

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