Update: Ben Vandenbos did the outing in 5 hours, 44 minutes on 9/18/2020. Proud work, Ben! I believe this is the new FKT.
In the summer, North Trapper peak is my favorite peak in the Bitterroot range, so I was excited to seek out it's craggy summit for a 7th time. I chose to solo the Anitolli North ridge (IV 5.7) to North Trapper peak and continue on the Cowboy ridge (II easy 5th) to main Trapper peak. I did this same traverse in the Fall of 2010, and consider it to be the best alpine rock adventure in the Bitterroot.
The day began with the mandatory long bike shuttle from Baker lake trailhead to the Trapper creek trailhead, and I didn't start jogging from the trailhead until after 10 am. I was gunning for time, so ran as hard as I could on the trail in about an hour, with one stop at the last stream crossing for water. The trail had about 40 down trees on it, which slowed progress somewhat. With a hard push, the bushwack into the upper basin went quickly, and I was gearing up at the base of the route just past the 2 hour mark.
I mentally shifted from speedy ascending to safe climbing before slowly ascending 1,200 foot Anitolli route in almost exactly 2 hours from the base. The climbing is all moderate on good rock, but the exposure and occasional lichenous patch kept me on my toes. I spent some time signing the summit register before embarking on the Cowboy traverse. I kept climbing shoes on for the first half of the traverse before switching to running shoes for the ledgy ascent on the west side of the ridge to Trapper peak. I moved as quickly as possible all the way to the summit of Trapper, summiting at 5 hours, 40 minutes. I drank the last of my water before beginning the long run down to the car. I lost the trail again high on the mountain, but managed to keep running until regaining it shortly before the user trail diverges to Baker lake. The run down the user trail to Baker lake and out to the car was really fun. In fact, the entire day was a blast. After passing a few folks, I arrived at the trailhead in a surprise light drizzle. I think this is a fastest known time. Anyone know otherwise?
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| Excited on the smokey summit of North Trapper peak. |
I mentally shifted from speedy ascending to safe climbing before slowly ascending 1,200 foot Anitolli route in almost exactly 2 hours from the base. The climbing is all moderate on good rock, but the exposure and occasional lichenous patch kept me on my toes. I spent some time signing the summit register before embarking on the Cowboy traverse. I kept climbing shoes on for the first half of the traverse before switching to running shoes for the ledgy ascent on the west side of the ridge to Trapper peak. I moved as quickly as possible all the way to the summit of Trapper, summiting at 5 hours, 40 minutes. I drank the last of my water before beginning the long run down to the car. I lost the trail again high on the mountain, but managed to keep running until regaining it shortly before the user trail diverges to Baker lake. The run down the user trail to Baker lake and out to the car was really fun. In fact, the entire day was a blast. After passing a few folks, I arrived at the trailhead in a surprise light drizzle. I think this is a fastest known time. Anyone know otherwise?
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| At the base of the 1,200-foot Anitolli ridge. |
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| Great exposure on the piton pitch (approximately pitch 5) of the Anitolli Ridge. |
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| A smokey glance back at the Cowboy Traverse from the summit of Trapper peak. |
Statistics:
Total elevation gain (based on topo map): 6,100 vertical feet
Pitches climbed: About 20
Normal trip length: 12-20 hours
Pitches climbed: About 20
Normal trip length: 12-20 hours
Trip length: 6 hours, 42 minutes from the Trapper creek trailhead to the Baker lake trailhead
Accomplices: None
Sustenance: Big breakfast (including a donuts). 3 L of water with electrolyte tabs and about 1,500 calories of Gu, Heed, and one Pro bar.
Fatigue factor (1-10): 6
Cramp severity index (1-10): 3
Stoke factor: (1-10): 10
Memories to suppress: Downfalls on the trail, SMOKE!
fine work brian, though I'm a bit disappointed to see that you weren't wearing your speedsuit. all that downfall must have come down in the last few weeks or so.
ReplyDeleteVery cool. Cowboy ridge looks steep n exposed from north trapper. Do you stay on the ridge proper the whole way?
ReplyDeleteNo, I don't stay on the crest. I think I have written a bit of a route description in other posts, but from N. trapper to the saddle the route is on the crest with two or three downclimbs/raps in gullies W. of the crest, and one exposed downclimb E. of the crest (either a short but exposed friction downclimb near the crest, or, preferably, a thin crack system just N. of the friction downclimb). From the low point between the peaks, I take a long ledge system W. and slightly downhill to bypass the first craggy ridgeline. Once you get past the first step, I work up ledges to the crest and gain it somewhere at the base of the peak itself, then scramble up easy 3rd class terrain near the crest to the summit. If you nail the route, it's all easy 5th class or less. It's kind of an adventure, but it is pretty doable with good route finding, a 30m rope, and enough slings to rappel short steps.
DeleteHey Brian, I commented on another one of your posts and you provided great beta for getting up North Trapper from Baker Lake. I've had my eye on the anatolli route now for awhile, tried it a few years ago and got lost ended up climbing a new route over there. Think you could email me sometime, id like some beta for the climb! Lrush2112@gmail.com
ReplyDelete