Swan range, Union peak ski

Union peak, Northeast face, with our Southeast ski line partially in view on looker's left.

Swan range exploration continues.

On a day with stable but variable quality snow, Jeffrey and I got a respectably early start, with a loose agenda to ski a few lines on Union peak and whatever else we had time for.  We had to drive very slowly on the highway due to an over abundance of wildlife, but we were still hiking up the logging road access to Pony lake by 7 am, and were on the user trail to Pony lake in no time with a few switchback cuts.  The remainder of the approach to the head of Pony creek went surprisingly smoothly, and we were on the lower North ridge of Union just a few hours into the day, ogling at views out to the Missions and deep into the Bob Marshall wilderness.  We made a high traverse through the headwaters of the South Fork of Lion creek, then climbed Union peak via the East ridge.  Having never been in this part of the range, I was pleased to find the entire approach and climb straightforward and quick.  I had originally planned to climb and ski the Northeast face, but it looked too steep and exposed to cornices for our liking.  Instead, we skied the Southeast face with reasonable corn snow.

Approaching Union peak. Photo: Jeffrey Friess

Skiing the Southeast face just below the summit of Union peak.

Below Union peak.  Post descent.  Lunch time!

With the Northeast face off the table, and my worry that a striking west facing shelf run would take too long, we climbed the peak on the proper crest of the range just East of Union.  It was pretty cool to get up on this very random, remote peak and ski a nice line right of the top.  The climb went quickly.  We skied a Northwest facing gully, which started out with chalky snow but soon transitioned to scary ice.  Fortunately, it never got too bad, but we had to resort to full survival skiing to do it safely.  From the base of the run, we climbed back out for the Pony creek exit.

A bonkey Jeffrey kicking the last few steps to the summit of our unnamed peak.

Interesting skiing above the couloir.

Exiting, with our icy West ramp couloir descent in the background.

During the exit, we made a major detour above Pony lake to ski a gully directly above the approach trail.  After topping out in the wrong spot, we spent a few minutes monkeying around but eventually found a safe entrance and skied the enjoyable run. The egress was straightforward.  We did some bushwack log hop skiing below the lake, but the transition to shoes was fairly clean, and the walk out to the car was quick and mellow.  Roughly 8k vert done in under 10 hours.

Chute skiing as an exit strategy?  Yes please.

Thoughts  This is a pretty good ski zone in the spring once the roads have melted out.  Union peak is a striking, aesthetic mountain, and is worth visiting on both foot and skis.  The best ski terrain is in three different basins, and getting out from the best ski runs is a little awkward.  I would like to come back and ski a more direct Northeast line on Union peak, and to ski some of the mellow but beautiful East facing terrain in the area.  It probably wouldn't hurt to figure out if it is possible to egress down Cat or Dog creeks, since that would make for more link up possibilities.  In the larger area, there is a bunch more exploration I want to do, including checking out the North side of Pyramid, and attempting a Holland approach to Cooney pass ski traverse, with ski runs into Albino basin.

I wish the drive was not so long and was less clogged with deer in the spring.

Mission Traverse on skis V.3

A Mission traverse from East St. Mary to Sheepshead was a primary goal for this ski season, so with support from Leah and a good forecast, I headed out on a Monday evening to drop a bike and set up for a post ski shuttle before settling in for the night at the St. Mary trailhead.

My alarm didn't go off, but I was still walking by 4:15, and respectably high by sunrise.  I took my time and dealt with surprisingly cold temperatures on the long climb to the alpine.  Although new snow was disconcertingly deep and slabby, the wind didn't pick up at all in the alpine, and I summited ESM in 3.5 hours, cautiously optimistic that conditions would come together.  There were crowns everywhere, but fortunately most of them were old, and new snow seemed to have just stabilized enough following a small natural cycle over the weekend.

Closing in on East Saint Mary peak.

On East Saint Mary, looking down the rolling run to Grizzly lake.

I schussed down the Northeast ridge of East St. Mary and transitioned quickly for the long climb to Mountaineer.  The climb to the peak South of Mountaineer went smoothly.  The alpine winds had abated, and it was turning into a beautiful, crisp morning.  I botched the route around the peak South of Mountaineer, but quickly corrected and was on the summit of Mountaineer about 7 hours in.

On the shoulder of the peak South of Mountaineer, with my detour track visible.
I like to make a big detour to the East to avoid rick steps on the Southeast ridge.

On Mountaineer.  I skied off to looker's right, climbed the sunlight face below the Garden Wall,
then traversed near just below the Shoemaker/Glacier connecting ridge to the summit of Glacier peak.

My concerns about slabs on the East face of Mountaineer were unfounded.  It skied great top to bottom, and I was able to traverse efficiently below the Garden wall to a nice warm transition break.  The climb to the Garden wall was quick on perfect sticky corn snow.  I put crampons on below the summit of Shoemaker and traversed below the crest to Glacier.  I bypassed the rime steps on the East ridge of Glacier, but the snow climbing was so steep and scary that I think it was more difficult than just committing to the ridge.  Nevertheless, I took my time, kicked secure steps, and was on the summit soon enough.  I skied good snow the upper West face of Glacier peak before making the devious sneak to Icefloe lake through the Glacier/Sonielem saddle, above Lake of the Clouds, and down a sneak gully.  I took another long transition to refuel and psyche up for the push to McDonald.

Good skiing on Mountaineer peak.

Crampon tracks on the climb to Glacier.

At my Icefloe lake transition, looking back at the sneak gully.

I pushed the pace as much as reasonable given my moderately fatigued state on the big climb, and summited in good time.  It was so good to be back on top of this magnificent peak.  The forecast afternoon showers were building, but fortunately they were light and intermittent, and I had striking views to the great Mission valley below.  The Northwest face skied quite well as it always does.  One last push was sufficient to summit Sheepshead.  I was tired, but benefitted tremendously from sticking to a restrained pace all day. I quickly transitioned for a run down the upper Southwest face.  My intended route was to ski the upper couloir, then traverse high to the Northwest ridge.  Unfortunately, I got completely stymied finding a way across the prominent looker's left gully, and ended up skiing down several hundred feet looking for a way in.  I couldn't find anything, so I pounded a gel, skinned up, and climbed along the edge of the gully until I was able to whippet hack my way through a cornice and gain access to the gully.  Whew.

McDonald view.

Fun powder low on McDonald.

At the top of the Sheepshead run.

From there, it was a quick schuss to snow line, and a easy bushwack by Mission standards to the road and out to the bike.  11.6 vertical feet, done in 13.5 hours at a responsible all day pace. The bike shuttle took about 75 minutes, and ended up being an enjoyable way to unwind from such an amazing day in the mountains.  And, best of all, I made it in time to spend an hour with my son before bed time.

Thoughts
The Mission traverse is so good!  For suitors, the route is long, complex, and committing, and it is advised to at a minimum have a good handle on the approach, egress, and a good concept of the route.  The traverse demands the full range of skills, including steep climbing and skiing, and a cagey eye for hazards, especially cornices.  I wrote a brief route description in the Missions route page, with both this route, and what I think would be a simplified "standard route".