Friday, October 24, 2025

Classic round up - Glen Lake Loop, Sky Pilot North face variation

I made a repeat go at a couple of classic tours in an effort to iron some wrinkles out and explore new terrain.  Perhaps my observations might pique some interest.  

Hidden Glen Loop 3/29/25

I think this loop deserves a bit more attention than the zero attention it gets because it strings together excellent skiing on striking features, and avoids canyon slogging.  

Up Hidden lake peak.

Basic Tour: Approach Glen lake , then Glen Lake peak (8,600).  Ski the South gully to Sweathouse creek (safer variation is to ski South on less exposed terrain west of the summit), then climb Hidden lake peak via the South face, wrapping around the west side and stopping on the North ridge a hundred feet or so from the summit where it gets craggy.  Ski something on the Northeast face to Hidden Lake.  The Northeast face is complicated, so plan a route ahead of time.  The most conservative line skis the North ridge, then traverses way skier's left until all the lower slope cliffs are bypassed skier's left.  Climb back to Glen Lake peak.  Exit via your favorite Glen lake egress.  My favorite is to ski the long East ridge of Glen lake peak to the terminus around 6,400 feet, then climb back the approach track and follow it out.  The historic avalanche path North to Big creek and out on the Big Creek trail is another option, but I am coming around to the opinion that the historic path is so rarely in condition due to needing a ton of low elevation snow, and the massive avalanche potential, that it is more of a variation/extension and should only be considered in rare circumstances.

Trip report: The day itself was fun.  The South run on Sweathouse was great, although it involved some creative debris management to avoid the aftermath of the huge "first warm up of the year" avalanche cycle the range had received the previous week.  I spun a nice corn lap on the south side of Hidden lake peak to get to 10k, then re-climbed my track to Hidden lake peak.  

Lower in the South Sweathouse run.

I skied a fun new-to me run directly down the upper Northeast face to a gully on the skier's right edge of the face, which was a secondary highlight.  I rolled the dice (snow coverage dice, not avalanche dice) and exited by the historic path.  The skiing was really good until the snow ran out about a thousand feet above the trail.  From there out it was really quite bad.  Downhill bushwack, scary deep water creek crossing, miles and miles of intermittent snow.  Good character building.  Great day, even if I felt a bit foolish miscalculating the skiability of the historic path so severely.

Powder skiing down to Hidden Lake.
The first 40 feet of a 4,000' adventure run into Big Creek.

Sky Pilot, North face 4/21/25

I skied Sky Pilot on a somber spring day.  I used the normal approach.  The North face skied great.  It was cool to see a few old tracks.  I stopped at the tarn below the North face and climbed the Southeast facing chutes that one passes under on the way to Sky Pilot, and skied one of the chutes all the way to Bear lake.  

Near the top of the Sweathouse chutes, looking down to Bear lake.

Then on the return, I threw in a quality hairy curve ball by climbing to the saddle between Sweathouse Peak 8,839 and Gash proper and skiing an excellent North facing run into the headwaters of Sweathouse before climbing the Northwest face of Gash proper and exiting via the normal route.  

At the bottom of the excellent Sweathouse North run.
Up the Northwest face back to Gash.

Thoughts: Aside from having to nail the exact line (most of the Sweathouse/Gash ridgline is guarded by cliffs or massive cornices that would be death defying to scout from the top), the extra run is a great addition to the tour.  I think that one of the major downsides of Sky Pilot is that a lot of the day is wasted with a throw away traverse run off of Gash, and an annoying, long return slog.  This variation makes it so that the return climbs are more direct, and the additional run is excellent.  

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