Sweeney peak, Central North gully

Sweeney is a justifiably popular local ski haunt, but tucked away on the lower North face are two interesting, albeit very condition dependent gullies that can be skied peak to creek from the summit.  In spring 2020, after a surprisingly enjoyable spin in the Western gully, I started climbing the central North gully, but bailed right away due to warming temperatures.  However, I was able to scope the icefall and file it away in the ski brain as an objective worth coming back for.  So with a nice cold forecast, good stability, and adequate low elevation coverage on shaded aspects, Leah and I headed out from the Sweeney trailhead at a casual 8:30.  We didn't know what to expect, and brought the full rappel kit of double ropes, all manner of climbing gear for an anchor, harnesses, and on and on.  

Adventure.

The climb to the summit was straightforward, and we were soon enjoying firm but excellent skiing in the upper North bowl.  We skied off the edge of the bowl and into the main chute, and were treated to a nice serving of perfect corn.  What a treat!  The nice corn deteriorated well above the rappel, but the snow was acceptable all the way down to the edge of the rap.  We are both way out of climbing shape, so the rappel took quite a long time.  I eventually found a confidence inspiring tree anchor and belayed Leah over.  After way too long scrapping around, we established a solid tree rap anchor and backup, and Leah was off.  In retrospect, we could have skated by with a single 60 m rope, but it would have been very close.  The skiing below the ice fall was a touch scrappy in a few places, but it was cold enough to hold OK snow all they way to the terminus of the avalanche about 200 vertical feet above One Horse creek.  I was pretty elated to have safely pulled off a challenging 2,800 vertical foot run with a healthy combination of excellent skiing and Bitterroot character.

Dropping in from the summit of Sweeney peak.

Perfect corn skiing in the upper reaches of the couloir.

Skiing below the rappel.

It took us the rest of the day to climb out to the Sweeney ridge and exit.  We decided to go down the drainage about a quarter mile before weaving an ascending line through steep thick trees and cliffs to the bottom of the Northeast bowl.  The going was pretty slow, but we eventually made it.  Once in the Northeast bowl, we climbed about half way out before a squall rolled through and dropped just enough snow to produce magnificent skin glopping.  Leah's skin may have fallen off, and I may have had to ski strap mine on, and there might have been a long grind of a bootpack to regain the approach ridge.  But we made it, and the normal exit was smooth and fast.  We were soon back at the car, excited to see another party of friends who had also had an enjoyable day of corn skiing on the South side of the peak.  

Glad to be done with the endless exit climb.

I think that this was a first descent.  If I do it again, I plan to bring ice tools and crampons and down climb the ice, with the possibility of retreating upward if the down climb proves too scary.  Great to get out with Leah.